Cattleyas have earned the reputation as the “Queen of Orchids” and are known to the public as the ultimate in floral corsages. While some naturally occurring species are offered by growers, the most popular plants are man-made hybrids derived from combining Cattleyas with some of their close relatives to produce a wide range of colors, sizes and forms.

Temperature: The ideal day temperature is 75-85 degrees F., while the ideal night temperature is 60-65 degrees F. Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged.

Light: Cattleyas and their relatives require a good amount of light. They enjoy full sun in the morning, but will require shading from about 11am-3pm; less shading will be necessary in the late afternoon. Their leaves should be a light green color, and a darker green color indicates too little sun.

Water: Basically, cattleyas grow best when their potting medium becomes dry in between waterings. These plants are epiphytes in nature, (i.e. growing on top of trees) and are used to drying out between the rains of their natural habitat.

Repot: Cattleyas should not be repotted unless the plant have outgrown the pot (every 2 or 3 years) or when the potting medium begins to deteriorate. Or when the mixture become sour, does not drain rapidly and is invaded by snow mold or shows green mold on the surface. A coarse medium such as medium-grade Fir-bark, or coarse-grade Fir-bark will work well.

Feeding: High-nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) can be used year-round at one teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed once a month.

Cutting Dead Flower Spike: When the last flower drops, cut your flower spike all the way down the stem. Apply a pinch of cinnamon powder or melted candle to seal the wound. Continue caring for it and wait for a possible rebloom.

Suggested Book to Read: You can Grow Cattleya Orchids, Revised Second Edition, by Mary Noble

The popularity of miniature Cymbidium is now spreading from Asia to the worldwide orchid community. These ancient flowers have been treasured, in numerous societies, for nearly two thousand years. Many orchid lovers are most charmed by its fragrance and form rather than its petite size.

Temperature: Cymbidium will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures (between 50-65 degrees F.). Cold weather, even down to 28 degrees F. for a few hours each night, will not damage an acclimatized plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35 degrees F. Regardless, plants should always be kept free of frost.

Light: Your Cymbidium enjoys the morning and afternoon sun most, yet should be protected from the hot mid-day sun. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates the maximum amount of sun the plant can take, and a dark green leaf indicates not enough sun.

Water: Watering of Cymbidium is a delicate balancing act. They should not be allowed to go dry, yet they don’t care for a soggy environment either. Watering once every seven to ten days is about right. As with everything else, special consideration must be given for the drying effects of varying ambient air temperature and humidity.

Feeding: High nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers (6-25-25) should be used from August until January. Feed one teaspoon to a gallon of water once a month.

Repot: Repot every two to three years from February to June with a well-draining medium. Fine bark is suitable in mild summer climates, while a finer medium Orchid Mix works well in warmer summer areas.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR CYMBIDIUM:

1. When you first receive your Cymbidium choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container.

4. It is normal for the leaves and stem of the plant to have a “bent” almost drooping look. This is natural with all Cymbidium and will by no means shorten the life of the plant.

Dendrobium orchids are called “Phalaenopsis type” because their flowers resemble those of the Phalaenopsis variety. Phalaenopsis type are evergreen, while other varieties of Dendrobiums shed their leaves in the fall and winter. Dendrobiums are also commonly used as cut flowers because of their sturdy stems and distinctive coloring.

Temperature: The ideal day temperature is 75-85 °F, while the ideal night temperature is 60-65 °F. Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged.

Light: These dendrobiums enjoy full morning sun, but will require shading between 11am and 3pm – less shading will be needed in late afternoon. An overhead light source is most effective.

Water: Phalaenopsis-type dendrobiums grow best when their potting medium becomes dry between waterings. They are epiphytes in Nature, (i.e. – they grow on trees) and are accustomed to becoming fairly dry between the rains of their natural habitat.

Repot: Repot once every two years in Spring, after blooming, or when new growth starts. A mix of 10 parts fine-grade Fir-bark and 1 part orchid mix will work well in 6″ pots and smaller, while medium-grade Fir-bark works well in larger pots.

Feeding: High-nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) can be used year-round at one teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed once a month.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR DENDROBIUM:

1. When you first receive your Dendrobium choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container. Enjoy!

The popularity of the Miltonia orchid is increasing rapidly, thanks in part to the development of rigorous hybrid methods that can produce plants in greater quantities. Because of the familiar shape and markings of these spectacular flowers, Miltonia are often called “‘Pansy Orchids.”‘ Their richly colored flowers blossom profusely. Although they may last for up to a month, their bloom time is as short as that of a cut flower. Miltonia can easily be cultured at home or in a greenhouse. They normally bloom in the spring or fall.

Temperature: The ideal day temperature is 75-80 degrees F., while the ideal night temperature is 60-65 degrees F. Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged. As long as you keep the temperature reasonable, you should have a healthy plant.

Light: Bright diffused light is necessary to bring Miltonia into bloom; this can include a little sun (not direct sunlight) for up to two hours a day.

Water: Unlike some orchids that require a drying out period, Miltonia grow throughout the entire year and must be kept evenly moist. Drench the plant in the early morning and let them dry out before nightfall. Once a week watering during the winter and twice a week during summer is normally sufficient.

Repot: Miltonia are considered epiphytes, which means that a general bark or orchid mix should suit them well. Repot your Miltonia at least once every 2 years or when the potting medium begins to decay. See our ESSENTIALS for more details.

Feeding: High-nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) can be used year-round at one teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed once a month.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR MILTONIA:

1. When you first receive your Miltonia choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container.

4. It is normal for the leaves and stem of the plant to have a “bent” almost drooping look. This is natural with all Miltonia and will by no means shorten the life of the plant.

The Odontoglossum variety of orchids are becoming very popular for ease of growing and long lasting sprays of small, distinct flowers which often have unique color combinations and a pleasant fragrance. They will typically bloom once a year and can be grown in the home, as well as in a sheltered area in the garden. Odontoglossum have been combined with Oncidiums and other related orchid types through hybridizing to offer a seeming endless array of striking color patterns.

Temperature: Most Odontoglossum and their hybrids enjoy intermediate temperature ranges: 75-85 degree F. day & 60-65 degreee F. at night.

Light: Most Odontoglossums and their hybrids prefer filtered, subdued light (from 1000 to 1500 ft. candles). The Oncidiums prefer bright light.The leaves should be bright green as opposed to dark green or reddish green. Reddish green indicates too much light; dark green indicates not enough light.

Water: Odontoglossums should become moderately dry between waterings. Generally, they require more water while the new shoot is growing and less once the bulb has formed. Fertilize your plants at least once a month. Take care to keep water out of the new growth at the base of the plant. Never allow the bottom of the pot to stand in water. Never use artificially softened water.

Humidity: Odontoglossums enjoy moist air, requiring a minimum of 40-50% humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures. The ideal humidity is between 55 and 75%, with as much ventilation or air movement as possible without any cold drafts. Humidity can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan filled with pebbles, rock chips, etc., and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that the plant will not have “wet feet” from setting in water.Morning misting of foliage is also helpful, especially during periods of hot weather.

Potting: Repot Odontoglossums at least every two years. As a general rule, repot them when the new shoot is two to three inches tall or when new roots appear. All the old mix should be removed from the roots and any dead roots should be removed. If dividing, keep the divisions in clumps of three to five mature bulbs. Medium to fine fir bark is preferred. The base of the new growth should be potted about 1/2″ (no deeper) into the fresh bark. Keep mix barely damp until you see the new roots penetrating the bark, then resume normal watering.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR ODONTOGLOSSUM:

1. When you first receive your Odontoglossum choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container.

4. It is normal for the leaves and stem of the plant to have a “bent” almost drooping look. This is natural with all Odontoglossum and will by no means shorten the life of the plant.

The Oncidium variety of orchids are becoming very popular for ease of growing and long lasting sprays of small, distinct flowers which often have unique color combinations and a pleasant fragrance. They will typically bloom once a year and can be grown in the home, as well as in a sheltered area in the garden. Oncidiums have been combined with Odontoglossum and other related orchid types through hybridizing to offer a seeming endless array of striking color patterns.

Temperature: Most Oncidiums and their hybrids enjoy intermediate temperature ranges: 75-85 degree F. day & 60-65 degreee F. at night.

Light: Most Oncidium and their hybrids prefer filtered, subdued light (from 1000 to 1500 ft. candles). The Oncidiums prefer bright light.The leaves should be bright green as opposed to dark green or reddish green. Reddish green indicates too much light; dark green indicates not enough light.

Water: Oncidiums should become moderately dry between waterings. Generally, they require more water while the new shoot is growing and less once the bulb has formed. Fertilize your plants at least once a month. Take care to keep water out of the new growth at the base of the plant. Never allow the bottom of the pot to stand in water. Never use artificially softened water.

Humidity: Oncidiums enjoy moist air, requiring a minimum of 40-50% humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures. The ideal humidity is between 55 and 75%, with as much ventilation or air movement as possible without any cold drafts. Humidity can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan filled with pebbles, rock chips, etc., and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that the plant will not have “wet feet” from setting in water. Morning misting of foliage is also helpful, especially during periods of hot weather.

Potting: Repot Oncidiums at least every two years. As a general rule, repot them when the new shoot is two to three inches tall or when new roots appear. All the old mix should be removed from the roots and any dead roots should be removed. If dividing, keep the divisions in clumps of three to five mature bulbs. Medium to fine fir bark is preferred. The base of the new growth should be potted about 1/2″ (no deeper) into the fresh bark. Keep mix barely damp until you see the new roots penetrating the bark, then resume normal watering.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR ONCIDIUM:

1. When you first receive your Oncidium choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container.

4. It is normal for the leaves and stem of the plant to have a “bent” almost drooping look. This is natural with all Oncidium and will by no means shorten the life of the plant.

The Paphiopedilum or Lady’s Slipper is by far one of the most unique and intriguing of all orchids. Its exotic, wax-like, richly colored blooms last for weeks and sometimes months. Lady’s Slippers have no pseudobulbs but feature attractive, glossy leaves. After leaves are fully formed, the flower stem rises from the center of the new growth to form one of the most unusual flowers in the world. Best of all, they are ideal for home growing.

Temperature: Paphiopedilum are divided into two temperature groups: warm and cool growers. The attractive mottled-leaf types come from the temperate zones and do best with a night temperature not below 60 degrees F. (preferably 65 degrees F.), and a day temperature of 75-85 degrees F. The solid green-leafed types come from the higher, cooler altitudes. They require a night temperature of 50-60 degrees F. and a day temperature of 70-80 degrees F.

Water: Paphiopedilum must be kept constantly moist or damp, but not soggy. Check frequently below the surface to determine the need for water. Normal watering intervals are between seven and ten days.

Light: Place in any bright window but protect from mid-day sun. Leaves should be a medium-green color. If they are too pale or yellowish, the plant could be getting too much light. (Approximately the same light intensity as African Violets is preferred.)

Feeding: Good results may be obtained by using a high nitrogen fertilizer (25-9-9) all year round. Feed once a month at one-third of a teaspoon or less to a gallon of water. Paphiopedilum are sensitive to fertilizer burn.

Repot: Paphiopedilum should be repotted every two to three years with a fresh, well draining potting medium, such as fine-grade orchid bark or Orchid Mix. It is important that the base of the growth be potted no deeper than 1/2″ in the medium.

QUICK CARE FOR YOUR LADY’S SLIPPER ORCHID:

1. When you first receive your Paphiopedilum choose a spot for it and move it from that spot as little as possible.

2. Once the plant gets acclimated to a certain location, they tend to stay the healthiest when left in one spot.

3. After you receive the plant wait 10-12 days before watering it, after the first watering, water it once a week. When watering is complete, ensure that all the residual water has drained from the bottom of the pot before replacing it in its decorative container. Enjoy.

These plants are commonly referred to as “Moth Orchids” and are considered among the easiest of the orchid family to care for as well as the most recognizable. The long-lasting flowers bloom perfectly for up to three months, providing you ample return on your investment. The flowering intervals vary with each plant, and you may be treated to a bloom as often as twice a year. Phalaenopsis have become one of the most popular variety of orchids because of their low maintenance and delicate balance of poise and elegance.

Temperature: Phalaenopsis enjoy much the same temperature range as we do. The minimum temperature at night is 60-65 °F, while the average daytime temperature should be around 75-85 °F. Occasional deviations will not harm your plant, except when it is in bud – chilly temperatures may cause the plant to stop budding.

Light: Phalaenopsis will flourish indoors under normal lighting conditions, with indirect sunlight being the most advantageous. Caution should be used when placing a Phalaenopsis in direct sunlight due to the fact that its leaves burn easily from too much exposure to the sun.

Water: Water often enough to keep continuous moisture just below the surface of the medium, but be cautious of over-watering. Watering once a week is normally sufficient to keep your plant healthy and happy.

Humidity: Phalaenopsis enjoy moist air, with a humidity level of 55-75% being ideal. Placing your plant over a tray or dish of water can increase moisture. Separate the pot and tray with pebbles or small stones to raise the height of your plant and ensure that it does not sit directly in the water.

Feeding: Good results may be obtained by using a high-nitrogen fertilizer year-round at 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed your plant once a month. In this instance, less is more. So be sure not to overdo it.

Repotting: Plants should be repotted every other year and, because they grow upwards without spreading, can go back into the same sized pot. A medium-grade wood bark works well with the base of the bottom leaf at the surface of the medium. Water sparingly until new roots are well established.

Note: When the last flower drops, cut your flower spike halfway down the stem. Continue caring for it and wait for a possible rebloom.

The Vuylstekeara variety of orchids are becoming very popular for ease of growing and long lasting sprays of small, distinct flowers which often have unique color combinations and a pleasant fragrance. They will typically bloom once a year and can be grown in the home, as well as in a sheltered area in the garden. Vuylstekeara have been combined with Oncidiums and other related orchid types through hybridizing to offer a seeming endless array of striking color patterns.

Temperature: Vuylstekeara enjoy intermediate temperature ranges: 75-85 degree F. day & 60-65 degreee F. at night.

Light: Vuylstekeara prefers filtered, subdued light (from 1000 to 1500 ft. candles). The Vuylstekearas prefer bright light.The leaves should be bright green as opposed to dark green or reddish green. Reddish green indicates too much light; dark green indicates not enough light.

Water: Vuylstekeara should become moderately dry between waterings. Generally, they require more water while the new shoot is growing and less once the bulb has formed. Fertilize your plants at least once a month. Take care to keep water out of the new growth at the base of the plant. Never allow the bottom of the pot to stand in water. Never use artificially softened water.

Humidity: Vuylstekeara enjoy moist air, requiring a minimum of 40-50% humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures. The ideal humidity is between 55 and 75%, with as much ventilation or air movement as possible without any cold drafts. Humidity can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan filled with pebbles, rock chips, etc., and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that the plant will not have “wet feet” from setting in water.Morning misting of foliage is also helpful, especially during periods of hot weather.

Potting: Repot Vuylstekeara at least every two years. As a general rule, repot them when the new shoot is two to three inches tall or when new roots appear. All the old mix should be removed from the roots and any dead roots should be removed. If dividing, keep the divisions in clumps of three to five mature bulbs. Medium to fine fir bark is preferred. The base of the new growth should be potted about 1/2″ (no deeper) into the fresh bark. Keep mix barely damp until you see the new roots penetrating the bark, then resume normal watering.

This handsome, glossy-leaved orchid hails from low to mid elevation regions of South America. Of the 15 species of Zygopetalum, many are terrestrial. With multiple blooms that often in flower for 8 weeks, they make excellent cut flowers and are used commercially for this purpose. The pseudobulbs are eventually deciduous. This orchid’s generic name is derived from the Greek term for “‘yoked petal,”‘ referring to the yoke-like growth at the base of the flower lip.

Temperature: Zygopetalum orchids will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they have mild nighttime temperatures between 50-65 degrees F. Exposure to cold temperatures (down to 28 degrees F) for a few hours each night will not damage an acclimatized plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35 degrees F. Always keep these plants free from frost.

Light: Your Zygopetalum enjoys the morning and afternoon sun but should be protected from hot midday sunlight. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates that the plant is receiving the maximum amount of sun it can take; a dark green leaf indicates that it needs more sunlight.

Water: Watering of Zygopetalum is a delicate balancing act. They should not be allowed to go dry, yet they don’t care for a soggy environment either. Watering once every seven to ten days is about right. As with everything else, special consideration must be given for the drying effects of varying ambient air temperature and humidity.

Feeding: High nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers (6-25-25) should be used from August until January. Feed one teaspoon to a gallon of water once a month.

Repot: Repot every two to three years from February to June with a well-draining medium. Fine bark is suitable in mild summer climates, while a finer medium Orchid Mix works well in warmer summer areas.

Recommended Books: Growing Classic Orchids by M. Tibbs; Taylor’s Guide to Orchids by J. White